Between July and August 2025, we set out to attempt the third documented winter summit of Monte San Valentín – a giant of Chilean Patagonia, famous for its massive height and extreme conditions. Our expedition, deep in the heart of the Campo de Hielo Norte, was much more than a physical adventure: it was a tribute to a mountainous world full of history and respect.
A legendary mountain
Monte San Valentín, 4,072 meters, is the highest peak in Patagonia – a massive ice block that dominates the landscapes of the Laguna San Rafael National Park. In this wilderness, nature presents itself in its most primal form. Many mountaineers have attempted to reach its summit, but in winter it remains a nearly impossible goal to conquer.
To date, there are only two documented winter ascents: in 1989 by Casimiro Ferrari and in 2001 by the Cumbres Australes team. Since then, few have dared to try again – and even fewer have succeeded. Our three-person team – Felipe Malverde, Eduardo Retamales, and I, Alvaro Quilodrán – were to be the third group to face this winter myth.
In the Heart of the Ice
On July 18, we set off from Pucón and traveled over 1,500 kilometers south. We crossed fjords and lakes by ferry, traveling through landscapes of breathtaking beauty: snow-covered valleys, towering glaciers, and forests that, in winter, seemed to be on fire.At Mallín Grande, the real expedition began. For several days, we transported our equipment through the Valle Leones to Lago Leones, which we crossed by boat. At Camp Heimp, we set up our first base camp. From there, the terrain became increasingly technical: dense forests, little snow, many rocks, and wintry conditions that slowed down every step.
The challenges never ceased: sudden storms, biting cold, and – completely unexpectedly – rodents that destroyed supplies, chewed through backpacks, and even damaged our tent. Nothing was easy, but each step was progress.
The Weather: An Unstoppable Enemy
Patagonian winter storms are legendary – almost like figures in the history itself. Our meteorologist Jhon was crucial to our survival, guiding us through increasingly narrow weather windows. However, the storms eventually merged into one prolonged front that shattered our hopes of reaching the summit.
The Return
After days of hard work, we finally received the decisive news: the weather would not stabilize. The risk of being trapped for weeks was too high. The decision was clear – and at the same time, difficult: we had to turn back. Although we did not reach the summit, we knew we had made the right choice. Once again, the mountain taught us that the true value of such expeditions lies not in summit success, but in the journey itself.
Reflections
The return was again marked by difficult transport and unforeseen obstacles. But in the end, we were left with a deep awareness: the experience we gained was more valuable than any summit achievement. Our expedition covered more than 2,800 kilometers overland, 250 kilograms of gear, and countless difficulties. We returned without reaching the summit – but with the realization that respect, humility, and learning are the true victories in high mountains.
Monte San Valentín remains there: monumental and unconquered. Mountains are not conquered – they are traversed. And this time, the mountain took us deeper into its soul, even without allowing us to reach its highest point.
